How Did White Become the Standard in Beauty? A Thoughtful History Reflection
- Kaffe Bueno
- 17 minutes ago
- 8 min read
By Alejandro Franco, Co-Founder of Kaffe Bueno
In a follow-up to "We Are Nature: Why the Future of Skincare is Not White," we embark on a journey to explore the historical roots of the hindering white standard in the beauty industry. Kaffe Bueno’s "We Are Nature" movement aims to redefine natural beauty and sustainability by illustrating the intrinsic connection between humanity and the natural world.
As we challenge long-held norms, it’s essential to understand the origins of these standards and question their continued influence.
Unravelling the Historical Timeline of White as a Standard
During my presentation at in-cosmetics global 2025 in Amsterdam, I shared a timeline that helps explain the historical context of how white became a standard in beauty, and it’s a story that spans centuries and continents.
Ancient Times: White as a Symbol of Status and Purity
In ancient societies, the colour white was deeply intertwined with notions of status, purity, and even divinity. In ancient Egypt, for instance, lighter skin was often associated with the elite classes who could afford to stay out of the sun, while those who worked outdoors had darker complexions. This association extended to beauty ideals, where white skin was often portrayed as more desirable.
Similarly, in ancient Greece and Rome, white skin was a mark of nobility and refinement, setting the privileged apart from the working classes. Cosmetics were used to lighten the skin, and elaborate rituals were performed to maintain a pale complexion. In ancient Rome even the ability to maintain pristine white togas, free from the stains of sand or dirt, reflected one's wealth and social standing.
What if, instead of striving for an artificial ideal of whiteness, we celebrated the rich tapestry of human skin tones that reflect our diverse origins?
Colonialism: White as a Symbol of the "Superior" Race
The era of colonialism brought a particularly damaging and long-lasting reinforcement of white as the superior standard. European colonizers often imposed their cultural values and beliefs on the people they subjugated, including the idea that white skin was inherently superior. This racist ideology justified oppression and exploitation and had a profound impact on beauty standards worldwide.
The legacy of colonialism continues to shape our perceptions of beauty today, with skin-lightening practices and the promotion of whiteness persisting in many parts of the world.
When will we fully dismantle these harmful systems of belief and create a truly inclusive vision of beauty that celebrates all races and ethnicities?
Hospitals: White Representing Sterility and Efficacy
The development of modern medicine further cemented the association of white with cleanliness and purity. Hospitals adopted white as the dominant colour for its perceived sterility, creating an environment that was meant to be free from germs and infection. This association of white with sterility and the clinical environment inadvertently became linked to the idea of efficacy in formulations. The perception grew that if it's white, it's clean, and therefore, it works.
While the importance of hygiene is undeniable, this association influenced the beauty industry unnecessarily.
White packaging and formulations were often seen as more trustworthy and effective, perpetuating the idea that white equals clean, pure, and effective.
But should the colour of a product dictate our perception of its hygiene and efficacy?
Consumers of today are also different; they are moving away from synthetic products, and the companies that produce them, and turning to nature. They want products that look like nature and provide efficacy. Natural ingredients often have inherent colours, and those colour compounds are frequently the source of their beneficial functions.
Design: White Representing Minimalism
The rise of modern design movements, such as minimalism, also contributed to the prominence of white. White became synonymous with simplicity, elegance, and a clean aesthetic. This design philosophy influenced the beauty industry's preference for white packaging and minimalist formulations, sometimes overshadowing the vibrant colours of natural ingredients. Today, a barrier for more sustainable packaging is also the fact that those are non-white.
What if we embraced a more maximalist approach, celebrating the richness and diversity of colours found in nature? Could we create a new aesthetic that is both beautiful and sustainable?
Food: White Representing Safety
The association of white with safety isn't limited to the beauty industry; it extends to our perception of food as well. The emergence of bleached flours are prime examples. In the case of bleached flours, the food industry even had to add additives to replace the nutrients stripped away during the bleaching process.
This begs the question: Why are we so fixated on white when it often comes at the cost of nutritional value and natural goodness? What if we embraced the natural colours of our food, celebrating their inherent nutrients and flavours?
Beauty/Personal Care: The Evolution of White
Over time, the beauty and personal care industry has evolved to associate white with a range of positive attributes, including cleanliness, beauty, and even success.
Advertisements have often promoted white products as the key to achieving these ideals, reinforcing the idea that whiteness is desirable. It's important to acknowledge that the marketers who created these campaigns most likely did not have malicious intentions.
However, the result of their efforts reflects how deeply ingrained the inherited biases lived and continue to live in their minds, which ultimately dictated and continue to dictate their decisions on how to promote their products.
On that logic, it would not be unrealistic to consider the possibility that these inherited biases might have also significantly influenced how the white standard came to be a dominant one for cosmetic products.
This historical context has shaped our perceptions of beauty in subtle yet powerful ways. How can we begin to deconstruct these biases and create a more inclusive and equitable industry?
📣 Marketers, consider this –
Are you reinforcing outdated ideals of beauty, or are you using your influence to promote a more inclusive and representative vision?What message are you contributing to with your daily actions and choices?
Personal Care Products: White = Yes, please!
These perceptions and preferences, shaped by historical developments, have led to a situation where white personal care products are often seen as inherently desirable, while products with natural hues are viewed with scepticism. These bias limits innovation and prevents the celebration of natural ingredients in their inherent colours.
Personal Care Products: Colours of Nature = "Hell No!" - An Outdated Perception
In this section, let’s look at the historical reluctance to embrace naturally coloured personal care products and explain why this viewpoint is becoming increasingly outdated.
Historically, there has been a bias against products that deviate from the white standard. This reluctance stemmed from factors like:
Historical Associations: As discussed earlier, white became linked to purity, cleanliness, and even efficacy.
Concerns about Stability: Naturally coloured ingredients sometimes presented challenges with colour stability due to oxidation.
Perceived Consumer Preference: There was a belief that consumers preferred white products.
These concerns often led to statements within the industry such as:
"If it's not white, consumers think it's gone bad"
"If it's brownish, they'll think it oxidised"
"If the cream is green, they'll think it's toxic"
However, these concerns often overshadowed the potential benefits of embracing natural colours, such as:
Presence of Beneficial Compounds: Natural colours often indicate the presence of beneficial phytonutrients and antioxidants.
Alignment with Consumer Trends: Consumers are increasingly seeking natural, sustainable, and transparent products.
Efficacy: Natural ingredients can be highly effective, and their colours are often tied to their function.
While acknowledging past challenges, it's crucial for the industry to evolve. Embracing the colours of nature should not compromise quality, replicability, or shelf life. Instead, we should work with these colours, recognising their inherent value and functionality, as we transition from petrochemical and synthetic-based formulations to more nature-driven alternatives.
💭Formulators, pause here –
Are you consciously choosing to perpetuate the white standard, or are you actively seeking out diverse, natural ingredients?What tough questions are you asking yourself before following the norm?Are you owning your actions and understanding their implications, or simply doing something because that's what's always been done?
Why Are We So Attached to White?
It's crucial to constantly question why we humans have developed such a strong attachment to white. History reveals that these associations are often rooted in harmful biases (though in some cases, out of survival instinct) and outdated standards.
When will we finally let go of these limiting beliefs and embrace a more inclusive and diverse vision of beauty that reflects the true spectrum of humanity?
The Chemical Reality
While historical and cultural factors play a significant role, it's important to acknowledge the formulation-driven reasons behind the prevalence of white products in the beauty industry. Cosmetic formulators explain that many creams are white due to the emulsification of non-polar substances in water, which creates an opaque appearance. Additionally, colloidal science emphasises that mixing oil and water with surfactants results in an emulsion that appears white due to the drop size of the dispersed phase.
However, it's crucial to recognise that our aim in Kaffe Bueno is not to go against white. It is simply to let go of it as an objective or barrier. Instead, we want to encourage the industry to see beyond the norm by embracing the colours of nature.
Consumer Demand for Naturality and Efficacy
Interestingly, despite the industry's continued emphasis on white, consumer preferences are shifting towards natural and sustainable products. Mintel data reveals that when researching ingredients in beauty and personal care products, consumers prioritise factors such as ingredient benefits, origin, safety, and environmental impact. White didn't even make it to the list of consumer priorities. Furthermore, the association of white with sterility and a clinical environment, once a positive, is losing its appeal as consumers increasingly distrust "big pharma" and seek the efficacy of nature.
Studies also show that most consumers have positive perceptions of natural ingredients in beauty products, viewing them as environmentally friendly, good for skin health, effective, and safe. They want products that look like nature, recognising that the colours in natural ingredients often signify the presence of functional compounds. Furthermore, when asked about attributes that help them trust a brand, consumers value clinical studies, recognisable ingredients, sustainability initiatives, and realistic images over factors like being sold at major retailers. Again, whiteness is not a significant factor in building consumer trust.
This data strongly suggests that the industry's obsession with white is misaligned with evolving consumer demands and the growing desire for natural efficacy.
🛍️Consumers, ask yourself –
Are you aware of the historical and cultural biases that influence your perception of beauty products? Are you willing to challenge your own beliefs and embrace products that celebrate the colours of nature?
Breaking Barriers with Kaffe Bueno
Kaffe Bueno is committed to breaking down these barriers and redefining beauty standards. Our "We Are Nature" campaign emphasises the connection between humans and nature, urging the industry to question unnatural standards and embrace the true colours of nature.
Nature is Not White: We celebrate the diversity of colours in nature and believe in the beauty of natural ingredients in their inherent colours.
Sustainability: We champion the use of upcycled ingredients as a sustainable alternative, minimising waste and maximising the potential of nature's resources.
Consumer Demand: We recognise the growing consumer preference for natural ingredients and transparency, as highlighted by Mintel data.
Embracing the Colours of Nature
The beauty industry is beginning to embrace ingredients that are natural, effective, and not white, such as Barkinno™ by Innomost, Pumpkin TONIQ™ by The Upcycled Beauty Company, and Lignopure Base by Lignopure. Kaffe Bueno's upcycled coffee ingredients, including KAFFAGE®, KAFFOIL®, and KLEANSTANT®, also showcase the beauty and efficacy of natural, non-white formulations.
Join the Movement
It's time to move beyond outdated standards and embrace a future where beauty celebrates the diversity of nature and humanity.
Unlock a Free Natural Formulation with Our Quick Quiz: Visit the We Are Nature page and complete the quiz to find out how to leverage the power of nature in your formulations.
Get in Touch with Us: Let’s work together, reach out via our website form.
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Collaborate: Are you a research agency interested in studying how the white standard influences modern purchasing decisions? Let's collaborate.
